收藏很久,第一次点开看。本以为是Dior本人纪录片,结果是Raf Simon刚上任第一场高定,乌龙了……还是看下去,本来也挺喜欢Raf的风格,虽然感觉他比较适合“戴着镣铐跳舞”,在各个品牌下面做的系列比自己品牌的要好看(个人感觉,喷就是你对😂
但是片子意外得有意思的,看一个新出炉的成衣设计师临时接过高定时装屋,在两个月内要交出一批秀场高定系列,要保留Dior风骨还要打破常规带来新风貌,很刺激。
大家性格都好可爱,时装屋里的裁缝阿姨们絮絮叨叨,会抱怨也会撒娇,更会认认真真缝制高定。小助手Pierre长得好像迪斯尼里的精灵,很贴心也很实干,能得一个工作坊的阿姨喜欢很说明问题了。Raf本人很平和亲近,坐正后方出各种idea,竟然还是个社恐,人太多压力大了会哭哈哈哈。了解品牌背后的人物故事还有秀场服装的一些设计理念(这部纪录片其实讲得不多)还是蛮有意思的。如果要看高定制作过程的细节,可以看Dior每季的官方宣传片,真的会被美到震撼!
然后学到了几点(可能无用的)知识:
1)工作坊是可以上门给客人调试高定礼服的,甚至从巴黎飞到纽约。
2)设计师本人不用画图纸,他出idea,助手找reference做moodboard,也每人画100多张图纸给他选,设计师从每人那选3-4张再做调整敲板,给到裁缝制作。衣服大致成型后会给模特上身,做版型调试。
3)高定竟然也是DDL驱动,大秀前一晚还在拆裙子从头做,到秀前最后十几分钟还在给礼服修修补补、调整细节。准备的过程也是兵荒马乱,会各种出错
4)不知道是不是Dior本身秀场次多时间赶的问题,只有2个月准备时间,而成衣秀可以多2个月。
The documentary tells a story about how Raf Simons, a newcomer, finds the balance between "inheriting the spiritual core of Dior" and "continuing his self-style", how he runs in with the artisans in the atelier, and how he breaks through his previous style to complete a whole collection of Haute Couture in a short period of time.
Christian Dior and Raf Simons were born in different eras, but they are similar in the way that they both uphold the idea that "contemporary women needs more release and freedom rather than bondage in clothes." Raf inherits this idea and shows his ambition of not being constrained by minimalism. After his innumerable insistent and alterations, his frowned face finally breaks into a smile. He said: “Sublime! Sublime!”
At the end of the show, everyone called out his name. He is indeed an excellent leader of the show. However, I believe the success is achieved by all people’s joint efforts -- himself, his assistant, and the whole studio of tailors. The tailors were suspicious of the newcomer at first because he was quiet and stubborn, and it is challenging for them to meet the requirements from both the clients and the creative leader at the same time. Fortunately, they are finally run-in with him and find the balance between the clients and the designer. But I know all along that Raf was carrying the most weight and under a large pressure so that I almost cried when he did at the end.
I strongly respect the designer Raf Simons and the tailors in the atelier, the old people with their craftmanship spirits dedicated their whole life to the brand. They work in the atelier with their dreams, feelings, insistence towards fashion, and the exquisite craftsmanship. By seeing their earnest expressions when threading needles, as well as the way they tease each other to relieve stress under heavy pressure, I feel that this is an atelier with full of human kindness. Their hearts and lives are connected to fashion and Haute Couture. Therefore, I strongly hope that the people who buy Haute Couture are those who can really appreciate them as works of art, rather than people who just want to show their status.
* 两条线,一条是迪奥先生,一条是新的设计师raf,所以叫迪奥与我。
* 在克里斯丁·迪奥的阴影下,在强烈的前人风格下,要做出令人满意的设计是很难的。说实话最后出来的秀,除了有限的几套比较令人惊艳外,大部分我都没什么感觉。但是这部片子人物刻画得特别好,所以挺好看的。
主角设计师raf
* 试图在最开始的时候表现得圆滑亲切,但是局促的表情动作还是能体现他敏感社恐的内心(估计别人看我也这样哈哈哈)。
* 一开始表现非常随和,说哪怕赶不上工期开天窗也没关系,随后就在试身的时候因为被鸽了一个小时大发雷霆(所以说领导的话不要当真😁)。
* 和负责人讨论登场和媒体采访的时候直接社恐暴露,号称只能接受最低限度的social,非要走天桥的话就要上面跳下来。结果真的硬着头皮上的时候也可以强颜欢笑(社恐泪目了)
副手(不记得叫什么了
* 好有魅力!!一个温柔体贴的时尚gay,作为社恐老板和员工们桥梁,所有人都爱他!
* 一开始觉得平平无奇,甚至老板还比他帅一点的样子,但是随着人格魅力的泄漏,穿着白衬衫忙碌的背影真的绝了!(第一次认真写观后感,以后一定要多截图😭
* 跟着老板raf好多好多年,感觉是raf没办法离开的人,媒体负责和raf谈判的时候就在一边无奈地笑着摸着底线说服他,要不是有男朋友我都先磕为敬了。
* 最赞的是可以看出他真心欣赏raf的才华,觉得自己是为了艺术的诞生在努力工作。淦!因为他我都要觉得raf真的好有才华了😢
两个工匠负责人
* “工匠”可能不是很准确,但随便吧,就是高定手艺人!
* 设计师来来去去,但工坊永远在那里,匠人像打工仔又像主人,有人甚至工作了四十几年的微妙又神奇的地方!
* 两个负责人一个亲切乐天,一个焦虑症患者,从脸上就能看出来!焦虑症那个临时接到通知要多加一件裙直接皱着眉头转身回工坊,看到这里我真的笑出声了,私密马赛!😆只能把脏话咽回肚子里,回头掏出自己的糖果盒摄入正能量,打工仔真的不易!泪目
* 拿到设计稿的时候,我感觉大家脸上就是勉强微笑😊的样子,但是东西做出来直接amazing!有种虽然设计就那样但是老娘手艺真好的感觉哈哈哈(纯腹诽
* 而且匠人竟然还要周旋在顾客和设计师之间,前面说的试身迟到就是因为有个大客户要改衣服…所以那么赶的ddl也要直接飞伦敦去,回来时航班延误才迟到了…但老板不想听解释,再次泪目
* 这场秀除了用某艺术家(没仔细看)的画定制的布料以外,其他基本就是薄麻布上面加钉珠和羽毛,一块布往身上一裹这钉一个针那钉一个针就成了,是魔法!
Raf是如何产生创作构思及高订runway作品的形成,像是没清晰的呈现出来。看下来像是工作坊的老员工一起"拼凑"出秀款,拿给Raf审批…… 当然,创作过程不大会是那样的,设计师是runway的灵魂。
Dior先生以后,眼里Dior最璀璨的美景就是Raf的那几年了。
说写的字数少了 不让发。 就再写这些。
Christian Dior be a dominant position in haut couturn, established in 1905 at 30avenue Montaigne(巴黎蒙田大街三十号), buy by LV in 1984. Dior was begining with perfume,"MISS DIOR" is first, in 1947 launched the first high fashion show, the series is "new look"
Z
Dior is the innovation in clothes, so the first serise is named "NEW LOOK" origanal intented give girl elegence, compare with 1930's straight dress and military suit during the war,
Series, such as "new look" "zig-zag" "Envol" "Ailee". if u wanna a Dior dress,first u get have a thin waist, especially for sandglass dress
MR DIOR is attracted in BLACT AND RED
DIOR DESIGNER HISTORY:
1. CHRISTIAN DIOR 1947-1957, died at Itlay for heart-desease, if u wanna know better about MR DIOR ,u can reay the book " DIOR AUTOBIOGRAPHY"
2.YSL 1957-1960. 1960 go to army,
3. MARK BOHAN 1961-1988
4.GIANFRANCO FERRE 1989-1996,a Itlay disigner has his own brand " GIANREENCO FERRE", is the first designer after MHLV Bernard Arnaurt made acquisition of DIOR, die in 2007 in MILAN, white-skirt is his represitive, famous with series " Ascot cecil beaton" (塞西尔,比顿的宽领带时尚装) launched at 1989 of his first high show in DIOR,
He had an good relationship with Princess Diana, and designed the series bag name "PRIENCESS DIANA BAG"
Fellowing pictures are review exhibition named " la camicia bianca secondo me" in cariatidi hall about his works
5. JOHN CALLIANO 1996-2011
6. BILL GAYTTEN 2011-2012
7. RAF SIMONS 2012-2015, he is also the hero of "DIOR et moi"
8. MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI 2016-NOW
last is genius- " JOHN GALLIANO" ,he is in charge designe from 1996 to 2011, because too much to talking , so next review is about him, put some of his works my favorite
西萌可爱惹
Raf 在show开场前压力硕大的落泪了,后来show结束后又哭了感觉这点感觉好萌。他的搭档可真是好啊,各种耐心好脾气。dior里的那个premiere在show结束还对他说“干脆把让我做你旁边办公吧”真是太可爱了。有这么群个性的员工,真是好啊~~~那一屋一屋的鲜花我真替预算捏汗啊~
时尚是造梦的行业,但梦想的实现也需要一针一线的坚持。
大开眼界,原来高级定制是从这些小作坊里出来的,而且顶尖的设计师和裁缝们竟然每天穿着白大褂
4.5穿插著Christian dior先生和Raf simons在不同年代,卻是同一年紀同樣處境的內心獨白。他們的童年都有各種「flowers dream」,一個影響著設計理念的大花園,以及那一望無際的海。我喜歡這樣悶騷的設計師,他在遇到困難時很絕決,在設計時很堅持,在秀前天馬星空,在秀中哭得像個孩子,真實如Dior。
布景太美,高定的布料和手工、剪裁的确一流。没有一个华丽的外表背后没有一个精神崩溃百感交集一针一线雕琢的背后。http://www.bilibili.com/video/av2918661/
时尚可以简单到美即可,也可以复杂到一针一线,喜欢团队有条不紊的合作,喜欢一件复杂而庞大的事情一点点从每一个小细节做起的样子,更能感受到时尚圈无法压制的焦虑,这是一旦上场就无法后退的战争,美丽残酷。
RAF真是内心温暖的小公举!!!!
那个西瓜皮没有得到预想的反应,设计师哭了。还有最后的经典款型,赞声一片。其实真正的那些主编,那些贵妇,未必能够理解设计师的。还有这个设计师面对大老板还是谨小慎微的,但也坚持着自己的一些底线和原则。真不容易啊,即使已经如此大牌了。
一流的工匠精神,一流的职人态度。
Raf Simons和迪奥工坊的匠人们。
#最后半小时。I came just for you. 我只为了看观众席中的那位小个子呀!阿姨生快❤
当时没觉得,现在Maria Grazia Chiuri上马之后才发现Raf Dimons的简约风骚有多么高级
感觉我对raf simon这种性格的人蛮容易动心。
这就是时尚
裁缝奶奶们好可爱!睿智细腻不失少女心,永持对美好对优雅的渴望,这才是forever 21的真谛。
woooolalala wooooooo
时尚、时装,确实不是我的范畴,所以很难看懂这部纪录片,但是一场成功的事件背后各种艰辛倒是通用的,所以,就这样了。
那件灰色印花大衣真是格格不入...
LVMH当年为了推Raf Simons真是不遗余力,他们成功了,从此对Raf路人转粉